Mar
28
2011
Steps on building a recessed wall unit
Author: admin
First of all we will begin our talk about the design and space planning moments:
When we ponder the wall unit first of all we think about huge units that hold televisions and other electronics as well as books and miscellaneous items. Nevertheless we can display décor without taking up a 10-foot wall and we will do it with a recessed wall unit which ideal way to be the stylish piece of the interior and at the same time to be the place where different exquisite things can be showed. Prior to wall unit construction you should measure the complete work area, including wall, floor and ceiling dimensions. Take into consideration the location of obstacles such as window frames, electrical outlets and/or studs. Determine whether all working corners are true right angles (square), and whether the floor is level, the walls are straight, and the ceiling is flat. This process need to be done because of the risk to have the wall unit not corresponding with room dimensions. You can measure most rooms with a rule, but if the angles are irregular, it’s best to assure true vertical and horizontal measurements with the aid of a 4′ level and a carpenter’s square. You are to use these instruments in order to define any differences greater than 1/4″ and compensate accordingly in the space planning.
What is about the wall frame?
You should deal with defects in the surrounding wall, floor and ceiling by building the unit 1″ to 2″ smaller than the opening and trim it out with moulding after installation. The following step is in design sketching. This sketch is to include location of shelving and other items, such as cabinet doors, based on the measurements of the space.
Shelf Span and Design
As you should know appropriate shelving is vital for storage as well as the unit’s overall stability and durability. There is a rule of thumb which says that shelves should not span more than 42″, nor should they be any deeper than 18″. The most common shelf widths are 30-36″, and average depths are 8-12″. In order to eliminate the potential for sagging shelves it is strongly recommended to take an attempt to design the bookcase for having spans of about 36″ between supports, using standard 3/4″ thick shelving.
If you’ve decide to use North American hardwood as the material for the job the first moment you should consider is the wall unit application, how the built-in will be used. A bookcase, for example, must be able to accommodate both heavy reference books (a complete Encyclopaedia Britannica set weighs 133 pounds) and lightweight paperbacks.
Build the Frame
Construct the bookcase frame with dado and rabbet joints, created by fitting one piece of wood into the routed recess of another piece. A dado joint is in the middle of a board, and a rabbet joint is at the end of a board. While making the recess you should be very attentive because too deep recess can weaken the board. Make your recesses no deeper than half the size of the working material. Create a 1/4″ recess for the backing to attach on to the rear of the frame. Create rabbet joints for the top and bottom of the frame, and dado joints for the cabinet top and the permanent shelf. The wood glue is to be used to help hold the joints together of the top and bottom of the frame. Once the “box” of the frame is constructed, attach the 1/4″ oak backing into its recess. Fasten it with glue and screws every 6″. This will “rack,” or pull the frame together as you work on the remainder of the project.
Adding Shelf Strength
In order the shelf’s strength is to be increased it is better to attach a 1″ x 2″ hardwood apron to the front edge. Similarly, applying an apron to the back of the shelf creates the same effect, while not interfering with design. These aprons make the shelf almost 400 percent stronger.
Installing the Shelving
When the prepared frame is in place you’re left with about 56″ for shelf space. Install the permanent shelf near the midway point (around 68″), where you previously routed dado joints on each side of the built-in frame. (Taller bookcases – more than 8′ – should have permanent shelving every 3′). Glue the shelf into place, and secure it with diagonally entered screws from the bottom. While the fixed shelf provides structural integrity, additional adjustable shelves provide long-term storage flexibility. Normally, shelves sit 12″ to 15″ apart, but this can vary depending on how they will be used. Consider the items that will sit on the shelves and add 2″ for fingers to reach the top of each.
Remember that supporting hardware for adjustable shelves is relatively inexpensive and easy to install. You can use common shelf standards, or the more attractive shelf pins. You can choose the standards or pins that meet your project’s budget, decorative and/or load-bearing demands. Once you’ve drilled holes for the shelf pins or standards, the project is ready for on-site finishing. The key to a good finish is repeated sanding and multiple finish coats. Allow the finished hardwood to dry completely before installing the bookcase, and use specified hardware to mount the frame into the wall.
P.S. for this article special professional materials were used in order to give right and useful information to readers.
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